By James Marson
GRIMBERGEN, Belgium--The boss of beer giant Carlsberg A/S had a
question before he picked the site for a pricey new microbrewery at
the 900-year-old abbey here: Where did the last one stand before
French revolutionaries torched it?
Those are the kind of questions that matter these days to
executives at big brewers like Carlsberg CEO Cees 't Hart, who are
responding to beer drinkers' thirst for exclusivity.
Grimbergen Abbey on Thursday relaunched a brewery inside its
walls for the first time in more than 200 years. The resurrection
has furnished its sponsor, Carlsberg, with its own kind of holy
grail: unique and authentic brews.
The facility will produce beers inspired by ingredient lists
found in ancient manuscripts in the abbey library -- the kind of
niche brews that have helped upstart competitors take chunks out of
Carlsberg's mainstay market of mass-produced lagers.
The Danish beermaker has spent millions of euros on the project,
making it one of the company's most expensive per hectoliter
produced, says its chief commercial officer, João Abecasis. One
reason was the age of the building site and efforts to respect
traditions.
Global brewing conglomerates including Dutch Heineken N.V. and
AB InBev, the Belgian brewer of Budweiser, have snapped up craft
rivals in recent years to try to boost growth as beer drinkers turn
away from bland lagers.
"It's very important for our growth, now and in the future," Mr.
't Hart said at the launch at the abbey Thursday. "It's a fantastic
story. It's appealing to everybody that likes beer."
Centuries ago, monks were the original craft brewers, using
local ingredients to create small batches of singular beers. But
the number of monks to beer the brew has dwindled. Global brands
have stepped in, hoping to cash in on demand for specialty brews
like abbey beers, which have become a commercial hit for big
brewers.
The brewery at Grimbergen Abbey, on the northern outskirts of
Brussels, has burned down three times since it was founded in 1128
by Norbertine priests. Beer likely tasted very different then and
was often preferred to water for sanitary reasons, says Father
Karel Stautemas, a 57-year-old former accountant who takes care of
the abbey's finances, as well as its beer. A cow bone, used in the
brewing process to purify the water, was discovered during
construction and dated to before the French Revolution, he
says.
When priests returned in the early 19th century, they didn't
restart brewing. But in 1958 a Belgian brewer offered to pay
royalties to the abbey to produce beers under its name. The
relationship was common at the time as monasteries struggled with
aging communities and weakening finances. Abbey beers, including
InBev's Leffe, are produced at commercial facilities that have
little in common with houses of worship, leading to criticism that
they are inauthentic.
Several Trappist abbeys where monks still oversee production
created a label in 1998 with strict rules in order to demonstrate
their authenticity, including that the beer should be brewed inside
the abbey walls and any profits should be spent on the community or
charity. Father Karel says he checks in every day on the three
brewers from Carlsberg who work in the new brewery.
In 2016, Father Karel says, he told Mr. 't Hart of his idea to
restart brewing, and he says the chief executive was enthused.
Carlsberg had already launched other microbreweries with adjoining
bars in France, Norway and Sweden that focused on the historical
connections of its brands, said Mr. Abecasis, the chief commercial
officer.
Sales of beers branded Grimbergen grew 35% in the three years
before the coronavirus pandemic. Craft and specialty brands, which
make up one-tenth of Carlsberg's portfolio, managed to inch up 1%
last year.
The abbey brewery will initially produce three beers, blending
tradition with exotic twists. One uses smoked malt of the kind
popular in medieval times. Another combines hops from Belgium and
Australia.
The beers will be sold in kegs and bottles to Carlsberg's main
European markets. The brewery will continue to experiment with new
flavors that will be tested at the bar and restaurant at the abbey,
which has doubled in size and has a window into the facility, so
visitors can see the brewing process.
"A cathedral of beer," says Father Karel.
The priests, who rise to pray at 7 a.m. and then breakfast in
silence, have blessed the brewery. They have final say over the
beers, Carlsberg executives say. In their white habits, the priests
stand out as they glide through the glitzy bar and brewery with its
modern equipment.
The royalties from Carlsberg help pay for the upkeep of the
abbey's buildings and the priests' pastoral and charitable work,
says Father Karel.
How much does Carlsberg pay the abbey? Father Karel leans
forward and, after a pause, whispers: "That's a commercial
secret."
In the brewery, a skateboard leans against the wall under a
simple wooden cross.
Not mine, says the abbot, Erik de Sutter. "I am not so sporty,"
adds the 57-year-old.
It belongs to Marc-Antoine Sochon, the 28-year-old Carlsberg
brewer who has overseen this project.
In the brewery on Wednesday, Father Karel ribbed Mr. Sochon
about his first strands of graying hair. Mr. Sochon spoke of
good-natured squabbles over beer with Father Karel, who is not a
fan of sweeter tastes.
"We usually find a compromise," says Mr. Sochon.
Father Karel chides a visitor who asks whether the abbey's 15
priests still drink beer. "What do you think?" he says.
Not every day, of course, he quickly adds, but usually on Sunday
evenings.
"We have a full panel of tasters right here," says Mr.
Sochon.
Write to James Marson at james.marson@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
May 31, 2021 16:05 ET (20:05 GMT)
Copyright (c) 2021 Dow Jones & Company, Inc.
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