- First Quarter 2023 revenues1 of €428.3 million, up 13.4%
year-over-year;2 and up 13.1% at constant currency.3 Excluding the
impact from Tom Ford Products, revenues were up 19.1%
year-over-year and up 18.9% at constant currency.
- Direct-to-Consumer Revenues for both ZEGNA and Thom Browne
rebounded strongly, up 24.9% year-over-year and up 25.1% at
constant currency.
- All regions showed strong underlying momentum, including the
Greater China Region which was up by 15.9% year-over-year and up
17.2% at constant currency.
Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. (NYSE: ZGN) (“Zegna Group,” the “Group,”
“Zegna,” or the “Company”), owner of the ZEGNA and Thom Browne
brands, today announced unaudited revenues of €428.3 million for
the first quarter of 2023, an increase of 13.4% year-over-year and
13.1% at constant currency. As previously disclosed, the licensing
agreement for the production and worldwide distribution of luxury
men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure clothing, footwear, and
accessories under the TOM FORD brand expired with the deliveries of
the Fall/Winter 2022 collection, and a supply agreement to act as
the exclusive supplier for certain Tom Ford menswear products
commenced starting with the Spring/Summer 2023 collection (the
revenues from the expired licensing agreement and the supply
agreement are henceforth referred to as revenues from “Tom Ford
Products”). Excluding the impact from Tom Ford Products,
revenues were up 19.1% year-over-year and up 18.9% at constant
currency.
Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna, Chairman and CEO of the Zegna Group,
said: “We started 2023 with an encouraging upswing led by further
reopening in the Greater China Region following COVID-19-related
restrictions. We also saw robust growth across our business in the
United States and Europe driven by our own retail. For ZEGNA growth
was driven by a healthy increase in productivity, which is one of
our strategic priorities. This ongoing strength underscores the
success of both our brands as well as the value of our vertically
integrated Luxury Textile Platform, which has allowed us to scale
up our internal manufacturing and production capabilities.”
“The successful ZEGNA rebranding has further embedded the brand
as a frontrunner in the luxury market, and a leader in 'quiet
luxury.' As we focus on continuing to grow, we remain determined to
provide our customers with the best and highest touch client
experience – one that they would expect based upon the quality of
the products we offer. Motivated by this mission, we launched ZEGNA
X, a digital ecosystem and customization tool which bridges the gap
between our physical stores and digital channels, allowing our
customers to interact with the brand in unprecedented ways.”
He added: “We remain mindful of the ever-changing global
environment. As the year progresses, we continue to relentlessly
execute Our Road strategy to achieve our medium-term ambitions.
Last but not least, we look forward to completing the TOM FORD
FASHION business transaction alongside The Estée Lauder Companies,
which we anticipate to close in the second quarter and start
operating the business under a long-term licensing agreement with
The Estée Lauder Companies.”
Select Highlights for the Three Months
Ended March 31, 2023 and Recent Events
- Strong revenue growth
- The Group recorded revenues of €428.3 million in the first
quarter of 2023, an increase of 13.4% year-over-year. Revenue
growth was strong across all regions, driven by direct-to-consumer
(DTC) strength in both ZEGNA and Thom Browne. Both segments saw
revenue growth: ZEGNA by 12.6% and Thom Browne by 15.4%
year-over-year. The strength of the Group’s DTC channel is a
testament to the soundness of the Group’s strategy and the ongoing
desirability of its brands.
- The healthy year-over-year progression of Group revenues comes
despite the negative impact from Tom Ford Products on overall
revenue growth of 5.6% for the quarter. Excluding the impact from
Tom Ford Products, revenues for the quarter were up 19.1%
year-over-year (18.9% at constant currency). During the second
quarter of 2023, the Group expects to complete the TOM FORD FASHION
business transaction alongside The Estée Lauder Companies and begin
operating the TOM FORD FASHION business under a long-term licensing
agreement with The Estée Lauder Companies.
- ZEGNA One Brand and ZEGNA X Launch
- The transition to the ZEGNA One Brand, officially launched in
July 2022, continues to prove successful, with increased demand for
the brand’s iconic products and a solid rebound in the formalwear
business. This is driving a healthy uplift in the productivity of
our ZEGNA stores which is a key strategic priority for the
brand.
- After the early March announcement, on April 17, 2023, ZEGNA
unveiled its new ZEGNA X digital ecosystem and technology at an
event held in Milan in partnership with Microsoft. ZEGNA X includes
a set of tools, including a customization tool and our proprietary
clienteling app, providing a powerful outreach tool to intercept
demand and capitalize on the increasing popularity of ZEGNA
collections and iconic products. Revenues generated through
outreach represent over 45% of the revenues generated by ZEGNA
boutiques year to date in 2023.
- In addition, ZEGNA launched a number of collaborations and
campaigns which support the amplification of the ZEGNA brand
message. These include, among others, the partnership announced in
January with the Canadian technical trail-running shoe company
Norda Run, a fall collection presented in February in partnership
with Los Angeles-based The Elder Statesman, and the ongoing
collaboration with Real Madrid for their travel wear.
- Thom Browne Returns to New York Fashion Week; TIME 100
influential people
- On February 14, 2023, Thom Browne returned to New York Fashion
Week to present its Autumn/Winter 2023 runway collection. The
collection received very positive media coverage and reviews across
traditional and social media channels, as well as from VIPs and
celebrities. All of this reinforces the cultural relevance of the
Thom Browne brand on the global fashion scene and beyond while also
supporting brand awareness.
- On April 13, 2023, Mr. Thom Browne was named in the TIME 100
Most Influential People of 2023 in recognition of his contributions
and innovative take on fashion and design in menswear and
womenswear.
- Group: warrants redemption
- On January 26, 2023, the Company announced the redemption of
all the warrants to purchase ordinary shares of the Company that
remained outstanding at 5:00 p.m. New York City time on February
27, 2023. This led to an increase in the number of outstanding
shares which amounted to 248,563,813 as of March 28, 2023.
Revenues for the Three Months Ended
March 31, 2023
For the three months ended March 31, 2023, Zegna Group generated
revenues of €428.3 million, an increase of 13.4% year-over-year and
an increase of 13.1% at constant currency. This growth in revenues
comes despite the negative impact from Tom Ford Products of 5.6%
year-over-year, primarily on the Wholesale channel, North America
and Europe. Excluding the impact from Tom Ford Products, revenues
were up 19.1% year-over-year (18.9% at constant currency).
Revenues by Segment
Zegna Segment: For the first quarter 2023, revenues for
the Zegna segment amounted to €319.3 million, growing by 12.6%
year-over-year and 11.9% at constant currency. Excluding the impact
from Tom Ford Products, revenues were up 20.2% year-over-year and
up 19.7% at constant currency. This growth was driven by ZEGNA DTC
performance and solid Textiles revenue growth.
Thom Browne Segment: Revenues for Thom Browne were €113.3
million, up 15.4% year-over-year (and up 16.1% at constant
currency), with the brand continuing to grow across all channels.
Womenswear and children’s products saw strong revenue growth,
outpacing growth for men’s products during the quarter.
Revenues by Product Line
Zegna Branded Products: Revenues for Zegna branded
products were €271.9 million, up 21.4% year-over-year. This growth
was driven by a healthy double-digit growth pace recorded by
footwear, luxury leisurewear, and by our Made to Measure
products.
Thom Browne: Revenues for Thom Browne were €112.6
million, up 14.9% year-over-year, with the brand continuing to grow
across all channels. Womenswear and children’s products saw strong
revenue growth, outpacing growth for men’s products during the
quarter.
Textile: Textile revenues were €33.8 million, up 11.8%
year-over-year, reflecting broad-based strength across the Group’s
luxury textile platform.
Third-Party Brands: Third-Party Brands were negatively
affected by the expiration of the Tom Ford International
distribution licensing agreement with the Fall/Winter 2022 season
deliveries last year, resulting in revenues of €8.9 million in the
first quarter of 2023, a 63.5% year-over-year decrease. Excluding
the impact from Tom Ford Products, the product line saw revenues
grow in excess of 60%.
Revenues by Channel
The Group enjoyed particularly strong DTC revenues, which
increased 24.9% year-over-year for both ZEGNA and Thom Browne
during the first quarter of 2023. DTC accounted for 64% of Group
revenues in the first quarter of 2023, compared with 58% in the
same period of last year, consistent with the Group’s increasing
strategic shift towards retail.
DTC revenues for ZEGNA were €229.6 million, up 24.8%
year-over-year, with solid double-digit growth across all regions.
Boutique productivity, which is a strategic area of focus for the
brand, was up by a very healthy double-digit year-over-year, driven
by higher average price per unit, increased traffic, as well as
rightsizing of the brand’s stores.
DTC revenues for Thom Browne were €42.8 million, up 25.4%
year-over-year, thanks to sound comparable store growth, and the
addition of net 11 stores worldwide compared to the first quarter
of last year, reaching a total of 62 stores as of March 31, 2023.
Japan and the EMEA region performed particularly well during the
quarter as well as the Greater China Region.
Wholesale revenues were €154.7 million, down 2.4% year-over-year
due to the impact from Tom Ford Products on the Third-Party Brands
and Textiles wholesale operations. Wholesale revenues for Zegna
branded products were up 5.5% year-over-year, while Thom Browne
wholesale revenues were up 9.3% year-over-year.
Third-Party Brands and Textiles wholesale revenues were down
21.8% year-over-year. However, excluding the impact from Tom Ford
Products, revenues grew by mid-teens year-over-year at constant
currency.
Revenues by Geography
The Group’s revenues continued to grow across all key
geographies in the first quarter of 2023 despite the impacts from
Tom Ford Products as mentioned above.
Revenues from the Greater China Region were €164.5 million, up a
strong 15.9% year-over-year, and 17.2% year-over-year at constant
currency, benefitting from the normalization of operations
following COVID-19-related closures. This led to revenues from the
APAC region totaling €205.3 million, up 17.4% year-over-year, with
Japan up 31.9% year-over-year and 38.8% at constant currency.
Revenues from the EMEA region were €150.1 million, up 11.6%
year-over-year. Excluding the impact from Tom Ford Products,
revenues in the EMEA region were up high-teens compared to the same
period of last year. The Middle East and Africa especially
outperformed thanks to strong retail trends in the United Arab
Emirates.
Revenues from North America were €65.6 million, up 6.2%
year-over-year. Revenues from the United States in particular were
affected by Tom Ford Products but still grew 1.9% year-over-year,
driven by DTC outperformance for both ZEGNA and Thom Browne.
Excluding the impact from Tom Ford Products, revenues from North
America were up mid-teens, and revenues from the United States
showed low double-digit growth, both at constant currency.
Dividend and AGM
On April 6, 2023 the Company announced that subject to the
finalization and adoption of the annual statutory accounts of the
Company, provided that the distribution is permitted under Dutch
law, and also subject to the approval of the proposed distribution
by Zegna’s 2023 annual general meeting (currently expected to be
held on June 27, 2023), it intends to make a dividend distribution
to the holders of Ordinary Shares of €0.10 per share, corresponding
to a total dividend distribution to shareholders of approximately
€25 million.
Outlook
On May 17, 2022, at its first Capital Markets Day, the Group
announced its financial goals for the medium term, which management
defines as the end of fiscal year 2025. Within this time frame, the
Group is aiming for annual revenues to exceed €2 billion and for
Adjusted EBIT Margin4 to reach at least 15%, excluding the TOM FORD
FASHION business. The Group expects 2023 results to show that it is
on this trajectory. The Group’s medium-term targets assume no
further future escalation of the war in Ukraine, no significant
macroeconomic or financial markets deterioration, no further
disruption linked to the COVID-19 pandemic in the Greater China
Region or elsewhere, and no other unforeseen events.
Next Scheduled
Announcement
The next scheduled announcement will be on July 27, 2023 in
connection with the release of the Group’s 1H 2023 unaudited
revenues. To receive email alerts of the timing of future financial
news releases, as well as future announcements, please register at
https://ir.zegnagroup.com.
About Ermenegildo Zegna Group
Founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group
(NYSE: ZGN) is a leading global luxury group. The Group owns the
world-renowned brands ZEGNA and Thom Browne. The Group also
manufactures and distributes the highest quality fabrics and
textiles through its Luxury Textile Laboratory Platform. At the
Group’s core is a uniquely vertically integrated supply chain that
brings together the best of Italian fine craftsmanship.
Responsibility towards people, community and the natural world has
been at the heart of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group’s belief since its
founding by the Zegna family over 100 years ago. Ensuring the
highest quality of products without compromising the quality of
life for future generations is a commitment carried from the
Group’s home in Italy to its operations around the world. Today the
Group operates in approximately 80 countries around the world
through 500 ZEGNA and Thom Browne stores, of which 304 are directly
operated by the Group as of March 31, 2023 (242 ZEGNA stores and 62
Thom Browne stores). At the end of 2022, Ermenegildo Zegna Group
had more than 6,000 employees and revenues of approximately €1.5
billion.
Forward Looking Statements
This communication, including the section “Outlook”, contains
forward-looking statements that are based on beliefs and
assumptions and on information currently available to the Company.
In some cases, you can identify forward-looking statements by the
following words: “may,” “will,” “could,” “would,” “should,”
“expect,” “intend,” “plan,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,”
“predict,” “project,” “potential,” “continue,” “ongoing,” “target,”
“seek” or the negative or plural of these words, or other similar
expressions that are predictions or indicate future events or
prospects, although not all forward-looking statements contain
these words. Any statements that refer to expectations, projections
or other characterizations of future events or circumstances,
including strategies or plans, are also forward-looking statements.
These statements involve risks, uncertainties and other factors
that may cause actual results, levels of activity, performance or
achievements to be materially different from the information
expressed or implied by these forward-looking statements. Although
the Company believes that it has a reasonable basis for each
forward-looking statement contained in this communication, the
Company cautions you that these statements are based on a
combination of facts and factors currently known and projections of
the future, which are inherently uncertain. In addition, risks and
uncertainties are described in the Company’s filings with the SEC.
These filings may identify and address other important risks and
uncertainties that could cause actual events and results to differ
materially from those contained in the forward-looking statements.
Most of these factors are outside the Company’s control and are
difficult to predict. In light of the significant uncertainties in
these forward-looking statements, you should not regard these
statements as a representation or warranty by the Company and its
directors, officers or employees or any other person that the
Company will achieve its objectives and plans in any specified time
frame, or at all. The forward-looking statements in this
communication represent the views of Zegna as of the date of this
communication. Subsequent events and developments may cause that
view to change. However, while Zegna may elect to update these
forward-looking statements at some point in the future, the Company
disclaims any obligation to update or revise publicly
forward-looking statements. You should, therefore, not rely on
these forward-looking statements as representing the views of the
Company as of any date subsequent to the date of this
communication.
Unaudited Revenues for the Three Months
Ended March 31, 2023
Group Revenues by Segment
(Unaudited)
For the three months ended
March 31,
Increase/(Decrease)
(€ thousands, except percentages)
2023
2022
2023 vs 2022
%
% at constant currency
Unaudited
Unaudited
Zegna Segment
319,324
283,523
35,801
12.6%
11.9%
of which Tom Ford Products
4,972
22,007
(17,035)
(77.4%)
(78.4%)
Thom Browne Segment
113,251
98,128
15,123
15.4%
16.1%
Eliminations
(4,263)
(4,072)
(191)
4.7%
n.m.
Total revenues
428,312
377,579
50,733
13.4%
13.1%
Group Revenues by Sales Channel
(Unaudited)
For the three months ended
March 31,
Increase/(Decrease)
(€ thousands, except percentages)
2023
2022
2023 vs 2022
%
% at constant currency
Unaudited
Unaudited
Direct to Consumer (DTC) - Zegna branded
products
229,596
183,909
45,687
24.8%
24.6%
Direct to Consumer (DTC) - Thom Browne
branded products
42,849
34,181
8,668
25.4%
27.8%
Total Direct to Customer (DTC)
272,445
218,090
54,355
24.9%
25.1%
Wholesale Zegna branded products
42,293
40,070
2,223
5.5%
3.7%
Wholesale Thom Browne branded products
69,703
63,756
5,947
9.3%
9.2%
Wholesale Third Party Brands and
Textile
42,728
54,646
(11,918)
(21.8%)
(22.9%)
of which Tom Ford Products
4,972
22,007
(17,035)
(77.4%)
(78.4%)
Total Wholesale
154,724
158,472
(3,748)
(2.4%)
(3.3%)
Other
1,143
1,017
126
12.4%
10.6%
Total revenues
428,312
377,579
50,733
13.4%
13.1%
________________________________________
Zegna branded products include apparel,
bags, shoes and small and large leather goods, as well as licensed
goods and royalties.
Group Revenues by Geographical Area
(Unaudited)
For the three months ended
March 31,
Increase/(Decrease)
(€ thousands, except percentages)
2023
2022
2023 vs 2022
%
% at constant currency
Unaudited
Unaudited
EMEA (1)
150,108
134,456
15,652
11.6%
11.6%
of which Italy
74,434
64,091
10,343
16.1%
15.9%
of which UK
10,381
10,970
(589)
(5.4%)
(3.4%)
of which MEA (2)
21,787
15,037
6,750
44.9%
43.2%
North America (3)
65,634
61,803
3,831
6.2%
1.8%
of which United States
58,035
56,933
1,102
1.9%
(2.4%)
Latin America (4)
6,773
5,665
1,108
19.6%
8.1%
APAC (5)
205,253
174,816
30,437
17.4%
18.9%
of which Greater China Region
164,526
141,980
22,546
15.9%
17.2%
of which Japan
18,655
14,139
4,516
31.9%
38.8%
Other (6)
544
839
(295)
(35.2%)
(35.5%)
Total revenues
428,312
377,579
50,733
13.4%
13.1%
________________________________________
(1)
EMEA includes Europe, the Middle East and
Africa.
(2)
MEA includes the Middle East, Africa and
Turkey.
(3)
North America includes the United States
of America and Canada. Revenues from Tom Ford Products in North
America amounted to €2,511 thousand and €9,718 thousand for the
three months ended March 31, 2023 and 2022, respectively, of which
the United States amounted to €2,397 thousand and €8,809 thousand
for the three months ended March 31, 2023 and 2022,
respectively.
(4)
Latin America includes Mexico, Brazil and
other Central and South American countries.
(5)
APAC includes the Greater China Region,
Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia,
Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other Southeast
Asian countries.
(6)
Other revenues mainly include
royalties.
Group Revenues by Product Line
(Unaudited)
For the three months ended
March 31,
Increase/(Decrease)
(€ thousands, except percentages)
2023
2022
2023 vs 2022
%
% at constant currency
Unaudited
Unaudited
Zegna branded products
271,889
223,979
47,910
21.4%
20.8%
Thom Browne
112,552
97,937
14,615
14.9%
15.6%
Textile
33,818
30,244
3,574
11.8%
11.5%
Third Party Brands
8,910
24,402
(15,492)
(63.5%)
(64.6%)
of which Tom Ford Products
4,972
22,007
(17,035)
(77.4%)
(78.4%)
Other
1,143
1,017
126
12.4%
10.6%
Total revenues
428,312
377,579
50,733
13.4%
13.1%
________________________________________
Zegna branded products include apparel,
bags, shoes and small and large leather goods, as well as licensed
goods and royalties.
Monobrand(1) Store Network at March 31, 2023
At March 31,
At December 31,
At March 31,
2023
2022
2022
# Stores
Zegna
Thom Browne
Group
Zegna
Thom Browne
Group
Zegna
Thom Browne
Group
EMEA (2)
67
10
77
65
10
75
69
9
78
Americas (3)
54
7
61
53
7
60
50
5
55
APAC
121
45
166
121
46
167
125
37
162
Total Direct to Customer (DTC)
242
62
304
239
63
302
244
51
295
EMEA (2)
58
6
64
57
6
63
88
5
93
Americas (3)
62
3
65
64
4
68
73
3
76
APAC
35
32
67
35
32
67
32
30
62
Total Wholesale
155
41
196
156
42
198
193
38
231
Total
397
103
500
395
105
500
437
89
526
________________________________________
(1)
Monobrand store count includes our DOSs
(which are divided into boutiques and outlets) and our Wholesale
monobrand stores (including also monobrand franchisees).
(2)
Does not include any stores in Russia at
March 31, 2023 or at December 31, 2022 (14 Wholesale stores in EMEA
at March 31, 2022). Although some stores may still be operating at
March 31, 2023, they have not been supplied by Zegna since February
2022 and have therefore been excluded from Zegna's store count.
(3)
Americas include North America and Latin
America.
Non-IFRS Financial
Measures
Zegna’s management monitors and evaluates operating and
financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures
including: adjusted earnings before interest and taxes (“Adjusted
EBIT”), Adjusted EBIT Margin, and revenues on a constant currency
basis. Zegna’s management believes that these non-IFRS financial
measures provide useful and relevant information regarding Zegna’s
financial performance and financial condition, and improve the
ability of management and investors to assess and compare the
financial performance and financial position of Zegna with those of
other companies. They also provide comparable measures that
facilitate management’s ability to identify operational trends, as
well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource
allocations and other strategic and operational decisions. While
similar measures are widely used in the industry in which Zegna
operates, the financial measures that Zegna uses may not be
comparable to other similarly named measures used by other
companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of
financial performance or financial position as prepared in
accordance with IFRS.
Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT
Margin
Adjusted EBIT is defined as profit or loss before income taxes
plus financial income, financial expenses, foreign exchange
losses/(gains) and the result from investments accounted for using
the equity method, adjusted for income and costs which are
significant in nature and that management considers not reflective
of underlying operating activities.
Adjusted EBIT Margin is defined as Adjusted EBIT divided by
revenues of the applicable period.
Zegna’s management uses Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin
for internal reporting to assess performance and as part of the
forecasting, budgeting and decision-making processes as they
provide additional transparency regarding Zegna’s underlying
operating performance. Zegna’s management believes these non-IFRS
financial measures are useful because they exclude items that
management believes are not indicative of Zegna’s underlying
operating performance and allow management to view operating
trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance
between periods and among segments. Zegna’s management also
believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin are useful for
investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses
Zegna’s underlying operating performance on a consistent basis and
to compare Zegna’s performance with that of other companies.
Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted
EBIT Margin provide useful information to third party stakeholders
in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s operating results.
Constant Currency
Information
In addition to presenting our revenues on a current currency
basis, we also present certain revenue information on a constant
currency basis, which excludes the effects of foreign currency
translation from our subsidiaries with functional currencies
different from the Euro. We use revenues on a constant currency
basis to analyze how our underlying revenues have changed between
periods independent of the effects of foreign currency
translation.
We calculate constant currency revenues by applying the current
period average foreign currency exchange rates to translate prior
period revenues of foreign subsidiaries expressed in local
functional currencies different than the Euro.
Revenues on a constant currency basis are not a substitute for
revenues on a current currency basis or any GAAP-related measures,
however we believe that revenues excluding the impact of foreign
currency translation provide additional useful information to
management and to investors in analyzing and evaluating our
revenues and operating performance.
____________________________ 1 Throughout this press release,
revenues for the first quarter 2023 and the first quarter 2022 are
unaudited. 2 Throughout this press release, growth rates refer to
year-over-year growth on a current currency basis, unless otherwise
indicated. 3 This press release includes information about our
revenues measured on a constant currency basis, which is a non-IFRS
financial measure. See the non-IFRS financial measures section
starting on page 7 of this press release for a definition of such
non-IFRS financial measure. 4 Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT
Margin are non-IFRS financial measures. See the non-IFRS financial
measures section starting on page 7 of this press release for the
definition of such non-IFRS financial measures.
View source
version on businesswire.com: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20230420005922/en/
Investor Relations/Group Communications/Media Francesca
Di Pasquantonio francesca.dipasquantonio@zegna.com +39 335
5837669
Clementina Tito clementina.tito@zegna.com
Media Brunswick Group Brendan Riley / Daria Danelli /
Marie Jensen briley@brunswickgroup.com /
ddanelli@brunswickgroup.com / mjensen@brunswickgroup.com +1 (917)
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